BUSINESS | DIGITAL LIVES AND TECH

Coffee-on-Wheels, the Drink Keeping the City Up

Indonesia

image

Nothing comes between Indonesians and their coffee. Across the country, the beverage is enjoyed around the clock. In metropolitan Jakarta, choices run from upscale boutique chains like Arabica or harlan+holden to homegrown third-wave players (think Tuku, Titik Temu, 1/15) and no-frills takeaways like FamilyMart or Tomoro. But in recent years, a new type of coffee business has appealed to consumers across urban demographics, and if you walk daily, commute, or work on-site, this is likely where your first daily expense goes.

 

The set-up is simple: your cold brew is readily available from a cooler affixed to an electric tricycle. The menu is kept compact, offering primarily crowd favourites such as kopi susu gula aren (brown sugar latte), caramel latte, americano, and sometimes, their matcha and butterscotch counterparts. There’s no latte art or pastries to choose from, but to most urbanites, it works. These coffee-on-wheels, borrowing the concept practiced by the decades-old ‘Starling’ (Starbucks keliling, literally roving Starbucks), can be seen occupying tiny spaces throughout high-traffic areas.

 

Tucked into the front of an office parking lot in South Jakarta, a mobile coffee cart commences operation earlier than any convenience store around. The seller remembers each regular's order by heart, slinging drinks for Rp5,000–20,000 ($0.30–$1.20) well into the afternoon. At its peak, five to ten customers queue up, and it's common to see someone order a dozen coffees for the office. The vendor would cater to nearly anyone passing through, from office staffers, security personnel, students, to Gojek drivers on a break. The carts are also set up beyond commercial districts, stopping near the mosques in quieter residential areas during Friday prayers. Essentially, wherever the crowd is.

 

Image Source: nonabelanja.com

Image Source: nonabelanja.com 

 

Business magazine Invest Indonesia links the emergence of mobile coffee carts to the Covid-19 pandemic, when coffee shops scrambled to survive and saw coffee-on-wheels as a workable solution to strict safety protocols. Chains like Kopi Calf and Janji Jiwa embraced this model. The former was the first to deploy electric rickshaws to sell coffee over longer distances, while Janji Jiwa launched its mobile concept in 2023, emphasizing accessibility through lower pricing than its brick-and-mortar outlets or online deliveries.

 

Image Source: stg.jiwagroup.com

Image Source: stg.jiwagroup.com

Image Source: Facebook Rheilab Gerobak Sepeda

Image Source: Facebook Rheilab Gerobak Sepeda

 

“The mobile and take-and-go model was a deliberate choice,” Ridzky Novasandro, Kopi Calf’s co-founder and growth strategist, told Wonderwhy. The brand, established in 2019 with close to 90 outlets across Java, gained “strong traction through online delivery platforms amidst the pandemic and quickly became a top performer in the greater Jakarta area, which cemented our foothold to open larger outlets.”

 

Today, Kopi Calf mobilizes more than a hundred coffee carts across key metropolitan cities, including Bandung, Medan, and Surabaya. The business embraces a dine-in experience on top of its to-go and coffee-on-wheels models, the latter of which Sandro described as the brand’s “passion project”. The aim was clear: “to deliver artisanal, milky coffee at an affordable-premium price point” and thus make it accessible to more people. “By triangulating prime locations to meet consumer demand, we ensured product excellence and convenience,” said Sandro.

 

This blend of affordability and convenience has tapped a goldmine in crowded urban hotspots increasingly characterized by café culture: why overpay for a delivery that may arrive half an hour late when a decent brew is just a few minutes’ walk away?

 

Yet, at a time when online delivery has structured our consumption habits, Kopi Jago–which operates some 300 electric cycles–takes the efficiency game a step further. Through its mobile app, launched just a year after the business, consumers can schedule their coffee deliveries in advance at no charge.

 

On its site, Kopi Jago articulates a vision to “revitalize neighborhood commerce by modernizing side street vendors” and a mission to empower micro-entrepreneurs by equipping them with digital tools to cater to customers “with speed and ease.” The brand prides itself on connecting smaller coffee roasters with a wider audience via franchising, aptly naming its cart operators or neighborhood baristas “Jagoans” (meaning “heroes”). 

 

Its digital-centric strategy speaks to the young, trend-attuned urbanites. This is further exemplified by their seasonal offerings, like the South Korea-inspired Jeju Cold Brew or the Jago Bubble Tea. Behind the company are Christopher Oentojo—ex-product specialist at Dropbox and product VP at Gojek—and Yoshua Tanu, serial barista champion and co-founder of Common Grounds and ST. ALi’s Indonesian business.

 

“Our goal was to find a new way for daily middle-to low-income consumers to access high-quality coffee without compromising on any aspect, whether ingredients, price, or convenience. We figured we just needed to strip down all retail costs, connect the customers through an app, and make it simple for customers to get a great cup of coffee at a great value,” Yoshua told market intelligence platform World Coffee Portal in 2023.

 

Having closed its $6 million Series A funding round last year, Kopi Jago is now on a mission to make café culture “hyperlocal”, setting its sights on an expansion to 1,500 mobile cafés. The company was unavailable for comment at this time.

 

A recent report by Kompas revealed that while coffee-on-wheels has only sprung up in the past couple of years, the majority of mobile café brands were spearheaded by longtime entrepreneurs in Indonesia’s coffee industry, like Win Daulat Hasnawi—a founding member of Specialty Coffee Association Indonesia (SCAI) and co-founder of mobile coffee cart Tajeer, whose menu is tested and developed at his own ‘laboratory’ Qertoev Coffee. Around 75% of raw Gayo beans in Greater Jakarta’s roasteries and coffee shops are sourced through Win.

 

Speaking to the newspaper, Win pointed to a market oversaturated with cafés vying for middle-to-upper income patrons, with many establishments opening and folding just as fast. Amid this crowded landscape, expanding to everyday consumers without the upkeep of a retail storefront has become the natural move, although he noted that competition is intensifying with each brand mobilizing “hundreds to thousands of carts.”

 

What unfolds proves to be more than just a strategic shift but a phenomenon that has swiftly woven itself into one of the defining features of an evolving metropolitan life. While brick-and-mortar retailers offer their own timeless appeal, the coffee-on-wheels concept has nonetheless tested the boundaries of premium access by bringing artisan, locally-sourced brew beyond four walls; highlighting local entrepreneurs’ capacity as creative solutionists. For Sandro, Calf “has grown into more than a coffee brand; it’s a movement built on accessibility, innovation, and real connection with modern, on-the-go coffee lovers.”

 

Could this be Indonesia’s new wave of coffee culture? The mobile café market may eventually face its own saturation, but for now, the carts are only picking up speed.

Writer: Hana Anandira